View Full Version : Vaccuum Plate.....

02-21-2004, 01:00 PM
Has anyone changed Vaccuum Plate? How long will it take(DIY)?
I have a 94 toyota supra and I changed my stock twinturbos to
single turbo befor so...I do have some experience with tools.
Please...help me to enjoy my car.
I bought a 95 540i last year with 104,000 miles. I noticed
a little rough idle at first but now it's really bad.
Last week I got a engine code "1213" Lambda.... and my
mech. told me to change my o2 sensors. yup....it wasn't the sensors.
This is my first experience with BMW and so far I'm not too impressed.
Only worry I have with my supra is " What am I going to upgrade next"
and with my Bimmer....."What am I going to fix next"

Phil in Vancouver
02-21-2004, 02:01 PM
This is info forwarded to me by Jeff on this board.
It may help you.

"Brett Anderson" <brett@koalamotorsport.com> "spmova" <sprnova@allteLnet>
Sunday, June 10, 2001 11 :29 AM
Re: Pay Per Incident Technical Support


Following is a list of every part you will need to do the intake re-seal.

Diverter valve 11 61 7 501 562
Cap 11 61 1 747085
Profile gasket 11 61 1 729 728
Profile gasket 11 61 1 729 727
Profile gasket 11 61 1 433 328 Quantity 4 Cap 11 611437694
Screw 11 14 1 460752 Quantity 7

This is the rear cover plate, known as a diverter or cyclone valve OR VACUUM PLATE, all associated gaskets and new bolts for the rear plate.

There are no other components accessible during this repair that usually need to be addressed, except a possible oil leak from the forward end of the left cylinder head.

If, after removing the manifold, you find an oil leak from the pipe (mentioned below), don't try to fix it correctly, which involves about 6 hours of very difficult work, instead, clean the point where the fitting enters the head really well. Then apply some RTV sealer around the fitting, sealing it to the head.

You'll need the following tools to do the manifold job;

10mm socket
11 mm socket
T30 Torx driver, recommend socket
Flat screw driver.

Look at the parts when you get them, the valve has a pipe attached to it that you need to remove in order to lift the manifold out. You remove the retaining clip and push the pipe forward, towards the front of the car, in order to lift the manifold off. It's fairly easy, you'll understand once you look at the car, and the new parts.


-Pull the top engine cover off and...
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Posted by new540iowner on November 14, 2002 at 11:08:07:
In Reply to: More info please... posted by mcgyver on November 14, 2002 at 01:33:24:
then remove the heat shield covering the intake manifold. Next,
remove the two bolts holding the coolant expansion reservoir to the fire wall and set it aside towards the driver's side. Now, look towards the firewall and in the very back of the intake manifold, you will see a 3/4" thick black plate mounted to the back of the intake manifold by seven Torx T30 bolts, 3 on the top and four on the bottom. Hopefully the bolts are not stripped
and you will be able to remove them easily. Otherwise, be prepared to break out the vise-grips to remove the bolts (six of the seven on my car were stripped). You will notice of the bottom of the plate towards the driver's side that a side port is connected to a metal pipe. Once you remove the seven bolts, remove the latch holding the pipe to the old plate and remove the plate. Next you're going to want to get a razor blade or other similarly thin piece of metal and pry out the old gasket on the inside groove on the surface of the intake manifold. Screwdrivers don't work as well as a razor blade, believe me on this. Once the old gasket is out, put in a new $3 gasket and go out and buy seven new M6 1,0 metric hex bolts from your local auto store along with some washers. Reconnect the new plate to the intake manifold using the new hex bolts and washers and you're all set. Make sure on the new plate you get that the black 90 degree elbow on the driver's side of the plate is capped off with a vacuum plug available at your local auto store as well as the topmost driver side port. The passenger side port of the rear plate connects to your fuel pressure regulator via an S-shaped vacuum hose. My hose had a small tear in it so you might want to replace that as well. After everything was done, I noticed a big difference in the acceleration and power of the car and the annoying howling/whistling sound is now gone.
The car idles very smoothly when warmed up although I still have to sort out the cold idle issue. Hope that helps...

02-21-2004, 10:07 PM
this piece of crap here, it's about $30 from dealer