rebuilt the oil pump

[632 Regal]

the pressure regulater was sticky as fuk, took me over 2 hours to get it free..this includes removing the pump and cleaning dino junk from it. Had to completely remove it. Still took hours to clean the regulator valve bore. 4 hours total to get it road worthy.

Dino has no place in this or any other engine.

[Brandon J]

Wow, talk about sludge. As far as oil goes, the banjo bolts are a very good idea to check and you will have to change the intake manifold gaskets which are prone to leaks. So, that is a plus.

Then check the front chain tensioner as this is a common area for small leaks. Of course valve cover gaskets also leak. Otherwise, use good oil and nothing too thin. Remember it is a M20 based engine. Do you have any performance chips in it yet? They make very good power improvements in the M70.

Okay, I am done with oil.

[ryan roopnarine]

the pressure regulater was sticky as fuk, took me over 2 hours to get it free..this includes removing the pump and cleaning dino junk from it. Had to completely remove it. Still took hours to clean the regulator valve bore. 4 hours total to get it road worthy.

Dino has no place in this or any other engine.

no pics? they have a parts kit to rebuild the oil pump in your car?

[Ross]

Hope it's a-okay now. This is why ebay scares the crap out of me.
Phone the fucker and let him know it's fixed on the cheap.Hopefully you will have the last laugh.

[632 Regal]

I'm not too worried about it, winters close and that will give me plenty of time to go through it. The car is still worth the price even if it didn't run...lol

Hope it's a-okay now. This is why ebay scares the crap out of me.
Phone the fucker and let him know it's fixed on the cheap.Hopefully you will have the last laugh.

[632 Regal]

I was thinking M1 0w40. Reading at e31club some have tried thick stuff and it made lifter click worse (mine dont click). I am going to tap the sending unit and see what the pressure is actually at. I'm going to most likely check out the upper end and loctite the banjo's while I'm at it too.

Cant wait to see how clean that area is

Wow, talk about sludge. As far as oil goes, the banjo bolts are a very good idea to check and you will have to change the intake manifold gaskets which are prone to leaks. So, that is a plus.

Then check the front chain tensioner as this is a common area for small leaks. Of course valve cover gaskets also leak. Otherwise, use good oil and nothing too thin. Remember it is a M20 based engine. Do you have any performance chips in it yet? They make very good power improvements in the M70.

Okay, I am done with oil.

[ryan roopnarine]

seriously clown,

when you mean "rebuild", do you mean clean the thing out, or was there a replacement parts kit for your oil pump. i have to do a oil pan gasket soon and would like to rebuild mine rather than buying a new one, if possible.

[Spasso]

I was thinking M1 0w40. Reading at e31club some have tried thick stuff and it made lifter click worse (mine dont click). I am going to tap the sending unit and see what the pressure is actually at. I'm going to most likely check out the upper end and loctite the banjo's while I'm at it too.

Cant wait to see how clean that area is

When choosing oil, use the smallest "low number" you want but NEVER lower the upper number. I have an engine that requires 10w50. Someone suggetsted 10w30, a very common/popular weight. No way. My engine is not designed for that.

The engineering, internal clearances, parts expansion and circulation were set up to REQUIRE a certain weight oil over a certain range of tempuratures. I have to use 20w50 in lieu of 10w50 because I can't get 10w50 anywhere. On cold days I block the oil cooler inlet and watch the oil temp to make sure it's where it should be..

If your manual calls out a lower weight oil like 10w40 great, use 0w40 if you want, it's good for cold weather circulation but you NEED that 40 weight for high temp areas around the valve stems.

[632 Regal]

I didnt take any pics, didnt think it would be that crusty at the relief valve. The internal parts actually looked like new, no gaskets to replace either. Disassemble, scrape, brush, reassemble with loctite, done.

no pics? they have a parts kit to rebuild the oil pump in your car?

[grave77]

you got me the creeps !! mine sound ticking and I wonder if I got the same mess down there, but wouldn't a high pressure engine flush fix some of this problem? I did that when I swapped the engine, the machine pumps cleaninig fluid from the oil filter while the engine is off and sucks it out from the pan and filter the mess in an external filter. I guess it does that in 2 directions. if that was true it should help fixing this mess.